So it's been a few hard days. Don't get me wrong spirits are high, laughter flows freely but it's been HARD. The last week I've felt the shift from walking to what I can only try to describe as becoming a true pilgrimage. I can't explain the exact why and how, but you learn on the way, and there is a difference.
We have had a few injuries between Lucy and I making us take things a bit slower, and the weather has cooled off a bit (which has been a relief).
We've passed through many small villages and also Burgos, which as a city is quite breathtaking once you are in the centre, However it's horrible to walk in and out of and just doesn't bloody end! This is good for us as it adds contrast to our experience.
I've experienced a pilgrim mass all in Spanish, which was curious. Lucy and I lost each other for a few hours leaving Burgos, which was interesting and also bound to happen. We are both so disconnected it took about an hour or so for either of us to realise we had the power to turn our phones on and connect. Then it was quite simple to meet in the next town.
We are about half way into the Spanish Meseta which is 3 or 4 days of walking through the wheat fields. This is often referred to as the most challenging part of Camino. I have just fallen in lust with it. Masses of vibrant green wheat rolling in the wind like a green ocean. It is incredible to see and be immersed in on scale.
We had a night in an albergue in San Bol which stood alone in the middle of the wheat fields, with a few trees and a magic healing fresh water stream foot bath. It was a collection of 12 quite different pilgrims and reminded me of the "Hateful 8" oddly enough! Except everyone got on (well enough) no one died and it was peaceful and restful. A pilgrim called Paco turned up with his dog LoLo. Turns out he started walking the Camino on the 24th June 2014 from Bristol. Very interesting Spaniard indeed...at the dinner table he shared a Spanish saying of "we drink alone till we know each other, then we drink together till we no longer know each other" It seems the Spaniards have captured in words most of the Western worlds approach to drinking!
As we left San Bol tendonitis flared up in my left leg crippling me, and all I could do was walk/hobble and cry. It wasn't just for the pain, but for the acceptance that things might not go the way I wanted or had planned. As I said, it's been hard and humbling when you simply just wish to walk.
In true Camino magic, I walked/hobbled on 5ks to the next village where I managed to send my pack on another 10ks to the next town with a pharmacy. After icing my leg, wise words, and generous spirit from other pilgrims about how to deal with the condition (mainly consisting of salt baths, ice and rest) and 2 chocolate croissants, I managed to slowly press on the next 10ks by foot.
So today is the first rest day we've had. 14 days of walking straight (covering roughly 325 kms) no wonder our bodies said "hey you slow down what the hell are you doing! Where did the car go?"
I managed to see the doctor and things are on the up, I've done 4 foot baths in 24 hours, lots of ice and rest and raising the leg and tomorrow or the next day I should be able to walk on. As the doctor told me in hybrid English "be the turtle". I don't like "being the turtle", however it appears this is my destiny for now at least.
As I hobbled into town yesterday Welshie (guess the nationality) and I were discussing our approach and mentality at the start of Camino. I was reflecting on how eager and fresh I was in the first few days, and our planning included trying to walk an extra 5ks each day so we could get ahead and have a day "up our sleeves". He laughed as he was the same, the outcome for him was crippling blisters.
They say the first 2 weeks of Camino is walking (physical) the second 2 weeks is thinking (mental) and the last week is spiritual (by your own definition) hmmmmmm...... We are now 2 weeks in and a lot has been revealed that seems to translate quite literally to life beyond Spain.
SOMETIMES YOU MUST BE THE TURTLE.
Raw, honest, funny. Thank you for sharing your words with us, they are truly a gift.
ReplyDeletex